We’ve not long landed back in the UK from the Geneva-based Watches & Wonders 2023 event, and while we are eager to review all of the new releases in detail, we couldn’t wait to let our readers know our personal favourites from the week. After sitting down with the likes of TAG Heuer, IWC Schaffhausen, Oris, Bell & Ross, Czapek, Parmigiani Fleurier, Montblanc and Baume et Mericer, we’ve hand-picked our best Watches & Wonders 2023 watch releases…
TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” Chronograph Watches
TAG Heuer had no shortage of Watches & Wonders 2023 goodies to give us this year, many of which fell into their sporty Carrera family since the collection celebrates its 60th birthday this year. One particular design which caught our eye was a duo of TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” Chronograph watches which revived the original shape of the domed hesalite glass used on the original Carrera watches from the 1960’s. The unique sapphire crystal glass flows over the dial and into the case’s edge giving the watches an almost bezel-less look. This also means the typical bezel-placed tachymeter scale is moved onto the outskirts of the dial, available in brushed blue with matching blue counters or brushed black with panda-style silver counters. Both stainless steel TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” Chronograph watches measure to 39mm in diameter and are powered by an updated Heuer 02 movement. The Calibre TH20-00 has an increased 80 hour power reserve and can be watched through the case back.
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Watch
A truly unexpected launch from Oris at Watches & Wonders 2023 was the Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition watch. This was one of the first watches we saw at the event so we’ve already reviewed this design in detail here. The joyful special edition see’s the Swiss watch brand partner up with Disney’s The Muppets and add a lime green dial to their recently launched ProPilot X model. It’s most unique novelty however is the date window, which on the first of every month, which Oris and Disney are calling “Kermit Day” reveals the face of Kermit the frog. The rest of the Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition watch delivers exactly what you’d expect from the ProPilot X; a streamline 39mm titanium case, three-row link metal bracelet, a fixed knurled bezel and the in-house Calibre 400 automatic winding movement.
IWC Portugieser 40 Salmon Watch
Many of our readers will already know we can’t resist a salmon watch dial, so when we spotted the IWC Portugieser 40 Salmon watch at the Watches & Wonders 2023 event we knew it would be making it onto this list. We have already reviewed this watch in detail here, but the design ultimately combines the timeless architecture of their 40mm Portugieser model with a salmon-coloured, sunray-brushed display. The dial varies from light rose to a rich salmon colour depending on the light and is joined by rhodium-plated hardware for the Arabic numerals, box-shaped indexes and slim hands. The hours and minutes are placed centre stage while the small seconds is positioned at 6 o’clock. The 40mm stainless steel case has a 30 metre water resistance and houses the in-house Calibre 82200 with a Pellaton winding system and a 60 hour power reserve.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze White Watch
Another Watches & Wonders 2023 release with a stunning dial is the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze White watch. For the last six years, Bell & Ross have been testing out different dial colours on their BR 03-92 Diver watch, originally debuting the 42mm by 42mm square-shaped bronze case with a black dial before later launching the display in green, blue, red and brown. Now the Swiss watchmaker pairs it with a gorgeous creamy white centrepiece that is almost pearlescent in certain lights. It is equipped with rose gold-plated indices and hands with Superluminova for the hours, minutes and seconds and a small date window is added between 4 and 5 o’clock. As always with Bell & Ross’ bronze watches, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze White watch will change colour over time as the material develops its own unique patina. This means each of the 999 limited edition pieces will be completely bespoke to the wearer. The design also has a 300 metre water resistant rating, a unidirectional rotating bezel with a brown anodised aluminium insert and the BR-CAL 302 automatic winding movement.
Angelus Chronographe Medical x Massena LAB Limited Edition
Technically the Angelus Chronographe Medical x Massena LAB watch was launched a couple of weeks before Watches & Wonders 2023 began, but since we got to try it on for the first time at the event, we’re adding it to the list. The release marks the launch of Angelus’ new La Fabrique collection which will hold vintage revivals inspired by their past. The Angelus Chronographe Medical x Massena LAB watch is no different, bringing back to life a 1960’s “doctors watch” with a rare pulsometer scale for measuring the patients pulse and an asthmometer for recording respiratory rate. The entire design screams “vintage” with a highly polished 39mm stainless steel case, 30 metre water resistant rating, a golden brown Novonappa leather strap and a showstopping silver opaline dial with the dual scale layout. A modern addition is the new A5000 chronograph calibre which uses only the one-minute hand since it’s the only one needed to use the medical scales.
Baume et Mercier Riviera GMT Watch
For Baume et Mercier, the year is all about their Riviera watch and for the first time the design is equipped with a GMT complication. The Baume et Mercier Riviera GMT watch sets its sights on globetrotters with a duo of dials in silver or blue set with a bright red dual-time hand and a cleverly integrated 24 hour scale printed in between the applied hour markers. Everything else about the Baume et Mercier Riviera GMT watch is typical to the collection; the dials are textured with a unique boomerang-shaped wave pattern while the 42mm cases sport dodecagonal (12-sided) bezels, polished chamfered edges and sporty hexagon screws at each corner. The designs are completed by the BM11893-2 automatic winding movement with a 45 hour power reserve, viewable through the sapphire crystal case backs.
Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Watch
Czapek had no shortage of impressive designs to show us at Watches & Wonders 2023, and we have to admit, it wasn’t easy picking a favourite. And yet, here we are with the Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector watch, a gorgeous adaptation of their integrated masterpiece, the Antarctique. The design swaps out the typical stainless steel architecture with one of lightweight titanium with a 40.5mm diameter and a slender height of 10.6mm. The dial is also new, complimenting the darkened case with its own dark grey anthracite display interrupted by two rows of arched parallel segments used to mark each hour. Powering the Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector watch is the automatic calibre SHX5, an in-house movement with a 60 hour power reserve and elaborate decoration viewable through the sapphire crystal back.
Montblanc 1858 0 Oxygen The 8000 Collection
For their Watches & Wonders 2023 showcase, Montblanc unveiled an entire new collection inspired by the world’s fourteen highest peaks—each over 8,000 meters above sea level. Suitably named the Montblanc 1858 0 Oxygen The 8000 watches, the designs benefit from Montblanc’s unique Zero oxygen case which eliminates the fogging of watch crystal affected by changes in temperature and altitude. All four watches have a new Sfumato dial with a dark grey patterned finish inspired by rock and ice found at altitude and a special etched case back. The collection includes a 44mm titanium Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition, a 42mm titanium Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Zero Oxygen The 8000 watch, a 42mm stainless steel Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph Zero Oxygen The 8000 watch and a final time-only 41mm stainless steel Montblanc 1858 Automatic Date Zero Oxygen The 8000 watch.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Platinum Milano Blue Limited Edition
Last but not least in our rundown of the best Watches & Wonders 2023 releases is the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Platinum Milano Blue Limited Edition. Parmigiani Fleurier were another brand with an amazing selection of new launches for the event, but out of them all, this rare Flying Tourbillon model took our fancy. The design replicates one of the same launched last year with a silver dial but now welcomes a new Milano Blue finely grained display. Attracting most attention is the flying tourbillon display at 7 o’clock fuelled by the calibre PF517 automatic winding movement housed within. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Platinum Milano Blue watch boasts the familiar 950 platinum 42mm case with a knurled bezel and integrated bracelet.
You can learn more about all of these Watches & Wonders 2023 releases and shop them for yourself on the Jura Watches website here. Alternatively, get in touch with the team by calling 01335 453543 or send us a message at help@jurawatches.co.uk.
