Horologii

Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 Watch Collection Review

Inspired by the excitement of night diving, the Seiko Black Series returns, this time with four special watches inspired by different historical references from the brand’s past. The new Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 watch collection includes classic references SPB253J1, SPB255J1 and SPB257J1, three modern re-interpretations of 1965, 1968 and 1970 diver’s watches and reference SLA061J1 boasting much higher-end mechanics and a full black coated bracelet.

The new Seiko Prospex Black Series for 2022 is certainly not the first of its kind. The original line-up was launched back in 2017 and we have seen several instalments since. The 2021 collection hosted a powerful trilogy of a Monster, Tuna and Samurai all embodying the dark nights sky with black coated cases and thick rotating bezels. The same aesthetic returns for the Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 collection but with brighter neon orange accents and Lumibrite dials for even better legibility. The new line-up also includes a fourth model, the Seiko Prospex Black Series SLA061J1 watch, a design with a premium spec inspired by the 1970 “Naomi Uemura” reference 6105. Let’s take a look at the full collection in more detail…

Seiko Prospex Black Series 1965 Mechanical Diver SPB253J1

First up in the Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 watch collection is reference SPB253J1, a familiar design to Seiko enthusiasts as it reimagines Japan’s first ever dive watch, the 62MAS. As you can imagine, this historic model is an important one to both the brand and its fans and we’ve seen several modern remakes of the design in recent years. For the Seiko Prospex Black Series 1965 Mechanical Diver SPB253J1 watch, the familiar divers aesthetic returns with a 40.5mm case diameter and 13.2mm height but this time with a stealthy black coating across the stainless steel case. The unidirectional rotating bezel introduces bold accents of orange on the 60 minute diving scale to match with the orange luminous minutes hand. The limited edition of 5,500 pieces also boasts curved sapphire crystal glass, a water resistance of 200 metres and the Calibre 6R35 automatic winding movement promising a healthy 70 hour power reserve.

Specs:

  • Case: 40.5mm, black coated stainless steel, unidirectional rotating bezel, sapphire crystal glass, 200 metre water resistance
  • Dial: Black with beige Lumibrite markers, black hands with beige and orange Lumibrite inserts
  • Movement: Calibre 6R35 automatic winding, hours, minutes, seconds, date, 70 hour power reserve
  • Strap: Brown textile
  • Price & Availability: Limited to 5,500 pieces, RRP £1,080

Seiko Prospex Black Series 1968 Mechanical Diver SPB253J1

Next up in the Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 series is reference SPB253J1, a design inspired by a Seiko divers watch from 1968. Its most distinguishing feature is its crown placement at 4 o’clock placed onto a larger case than the 1965-inspired reference above. The black coated stainless steel case sits on the wrist at 42mm in diameter and 12.5mm in height and again delivers the same black dial, orange accents, unidirectional rotating bezel and Lumibrite hardware. This time, rounded indexes decorate the circumference of the dial and sharper hands display the hours, minutes and seconds. The dial is still powered by the Calibre 6R35 movement with 24 jewels, a 21,600vph frequency and a 70 hour power reserve. The Seiko Prospex Black Series 1968 Mechanical Diver SPB253J1 watch secures to the wrist by a brown textile strap with black hardware and is a limited edition of 5,500 pieces.

Specs:

  • Case: 42mm, black coated stainless steel, unidirectional rotating bezel, sapphire crystal glass, 200 metre water resistance
  • Dial: Black with beige Lumibrite markers, black hands with beige and orange Lumibrite inserts
  • Movement: Calibre 6R35 automatic winding, hours, minutes, seconds, date, 70 hour power reserve
  • Strap: Brown textile
  • Price & Availability: Limited to 5,500 pieces, RRP £1,080

Seiko Prospex Black Series 1970 Mechanical Diver SPB257J1

Completing the trilogy of textile-strapped, Calibre 6R35-powered divers watches in the Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 collection is reference SPB257J1. You’ll see this design across retailer’s websites with the nickname “Captain Willard” attached to it. Why? Because it follows in the footsteps of the Seiko 6105-8110 which was made famous when worn in the legendary movie Apocalypse Now. It’s rugged, military-esque aesthetic returns in the Seiko Prospex Black Series 1970 Mechanical Diver SPB257J1 watch including its rounded short lugs, box-shaped indexes and 4 o’clock crown. The case is the largest so far in the series with a diameter of 42.7mm and a height of 13.2mm still finished in a black hard coating and decorated with the same orange and beige accents on the bezel and dial. The limited edition of 5,500 pieces treats us to yet another brown textile strap with a black pin buckle and the Calibre 6R35 movement.

Specs:

  • Case: 42.7mm, black coated stainless steel, unidirectional rotating bezel, sapphire crystal glass, 200 metre water resistance
  • Dial: Black with beige Lumibrite markers, black hands with beige and orange Lumibrite inserts
  • Movement: Calibre 6R35 automatic winding, hours, minutes, seconds, date, 70 hour power reserve
  • Strap: Brown textile
  • Price & Availability: Limited to 5,500 pieces, RRP £1,170

Seiko Prospex Black Series 1970 Mechanical Diver SLA061J1

Last but certainly not least in the Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 collection is reference SLA061J1. As you can see, it stands out much more significantly to the previous three and offers premium spec in comparison. As its name suggests, it remains inspired by the same 1970 “Captain Willard” watch as the reference above, a design made famous by the movie Apocalypse Now and Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura, who famously wore the watch on a 12,000km single-man dog-sledge run from  Greenland to Alaska. As for the Seiko Prospex Black Series 1970 Mechanical Diver SLA061J1, we’re presented with the same rounded case but with a 44mm diameter engineered from black coated stainless steel. There’s also the same curved sapphire crystal glass, crown at 4 o’clock, 200 metre water resistance and unidirectional bezel.

The Seiko Prospex Black Series 1970 Mechanical Diver SLA061J1 differs greatly however in its dial and movement. The dial boasts a unique black textured finish inspired by the waves of the ocean at night, a finish that is usually reserved for Seiko’s premium Grand Seiko line. The black centrepiece is then finished with applied markers and hands with cream Lumibrite, an orange seconds hand and some orange lettering at 6 o’clock. Beneath the dial is one of the brand’s best respected movements, the Calibre 8L35 which has been designed exclusively by the watchmakers at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in northern Japan. It is given an accuracy rating of +15 to -10 seconds per day, a power reserve of 50 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800vph. Completing the 1,000-piece Seiko Prospex Black Series 2022 SLA061J1 Limited Edition watch is a solid black coated stainless steel bracelet and folding buckle.

Specs:

  • Case: 44mm, black coated stainless steel, unidirectional rotating bezel, sapphire crystal glass, 200 metre water resistance
  • Dial: Textured black with cream Lumibrite markers hands, orange seconds hand
  • Movement: Calibre 8L35 automatic winding, hours, minutes, seconds, date, 50 hour power reserve
  • Strap: Black coated steel bracelet
  • Price & Availability: Limited to 1,000 pieces, RRP £2,850