Horologii

Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Watches Review

Longines have once again dipped into their vast historic archives, this time unveiling two stunning Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo watches inspired by a pair of timepieces from the 1940’s. The first is a classic three-hand model and the second a chronograph, both designed to revive the spirit of the era, the wild parties and the elegant fashion sense.

The Longines Heritage collection is famously made up of modern reinterpretations of historical watches and it appears the Swiss watch manufacturer has a never-ending supply of vintage designs to play with. We’ve seen the Longines Military 1938 watch, the Skin Diver, the Legend Diver, the Heritage 1945… we could go on! And yet despite their considerable range of retro-inspired timepieces, we are always on the lookout for more. It’s because Longines do a fantastic job at respecting the original designs, keeping a faithful aesthetic with just the right amount of contemporary improvements all at a compelling price.  We are pleased to say the same can be applied to the new Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo watches.

Two vintage Longines watches: a chronograph dating to 1943 and a three-hander dating to 1945

The Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo watches are inspired by two historical pieces from the 1940’s that were likely found on the wrists of partygoers at jazz clubs. They were nicknamed “Tuxedo” by collectors for their striking contrast of black and white on the dial that instantly evokes the colours of the suits worn during the elegant and festive evenings of the time. As expected, Longines have carefully created the re-editions to be as faithful as possible to the original, first ensuring the word “Automatic” has not been used on the dial and second, to leave out a date window. We are incredibly pleased about the latter, as we have often seen date windows added to Longines Heritage models and quietly wished they had been misplaced.

The first of the new models is the Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Small Seconds, a 38.5mm dress piece with a stunning opaline silver dial surrounded by a sublime matte black hours track detailed with raised Arabic numerals. Slim baton hands coated in glow in the dark Superluminova display classic hours and minutes while a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock is nicely decorated with a bit of snailing for contrast. The black and white aesthetic is complimented by a matte black leather strap fitted with a classic steel pin buckle.

Housed within the stainless steel case and hidden behind the closed case back beautifully engraved with the old-school Longines winged hourglass logo is the L893 automatic winding calibre. The movement and its escapement is fitted with the brand’s legendary silicon balance spring designed to ensure outstanding quality and the constant precision of time. The Swiss made movement also promises a frequency of 25,200 vph and an extended power reserve of 64 hours. The Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Small Seconds retails at £1,480.

The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph is our favourite, and we expect it to be a popular choice with collectors too – mostly because of its association with one of Longines’ most iconic hand-wound chronograph movements. The new re-edition is inspired by the Longines 13ZN chronograph first debuted in 1943 and although the 13ZN calibre is no longer in production, this automatic bi-compax chronograph still does the job for us aesthetically. It features a gorgeous matte black and white dial with midnight blue accents on the hands and a tachymeter scale around the edge – a rare sight in a Longines watch.

The piece measures slightly larger than its three hand counterpart at 40mm in diameter, still presented in polished stainless steel with elegant shaped pushers and crown. Fitted to the case is a matching matte black leather strap detailed with white stitching and a classic steel pin buckle. Unfortunately, the movement inside the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph is not hand-wound, mainly because Longines no longer manufacture this kind of chronograph anymore. Nevertheless, the L895 calibre that replaces it suits us fine and with its retail price of £2,210, it’s difficult to argue. It’s a sturdy automatic winding movement with a frequency of 28,800 vph, a power reserve of 54 hours that also comes fitted with the silicon balance spring.

Both Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo watches are available to order now on the Jura Watches website. Get in touch with their team today on 01335 453453 or at help@jurawatches.co.uk for assistance with your purchase and for advice on the interest free finance and free next day delivery options.

Specifications: Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Small Seconds (L2.330.4.93.0)

  • Case Size: 38.5mm
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Bezel: Fixed
  • Glass: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
  • Case Back: Closed
  • Water Resistance: 30 metres
  • Movement: L893 automatic winding
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
  • Power Reserve: 64 hours
  • Jewels: 27
  • Frequency: 25,200vph
  • COSC: No
  • Dial: Silver opaline and black
  • Hands: Rhodium plated with Superluminova
  • Strap: Black leather
  • Buckle: Pin
  • RRP: £1,480

Specifications: Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph (L2.830.4.93.0)

  • Case Size: 40mm
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Bezel: Fixed, inner tachymeter scale
  • Glass: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
  • Case Back: Closed
  • Water Resistance: 30 metres
  • Movement: L895 automatic winding
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, 30 minutes counter
  • Power Reserve: 54 hours
  • Jewels: 27
  • Frequency: 28,800vph
  • COSC: No
  • Dial: Silver opaline and black
  • Hands: Silvered polished with Superluminova
  • Strap: Black leather
  • Buckle: Pin
  • RRP: £2,210