TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Series Review

Last year, TAG Heuer launched the Professional 300 series which introduced several improvements to the Aquaracer collection including shorter lugs, a quieter rotating bezel, wider hands and octagonal indexes. The designs were undeniably aggressive in their stylings and varied from 43mm to 36mm in size. Now, delivering these same upgrades but with a more classic, streamlined finish is the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 available with 40mm or 30mm cases.

The Aquaracer has remained an unmovable fixture in TAG Heuer’s portfolio ever since 2004, and even before then, the highly collectible Heuer Ref 844 from 1978 upheld all the familiar traits of the luxury sports watch. Like it’s predecessor, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer upholds the legacy of the family’s six design codes. These include a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown, water resistance to at least 200 metres, luminous markings, sapphire crystal and a double safety folding clasp. The same can be said for the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 series which follows the launch of the Professional 300 series last year. But how do these collections differ?…

“The Aquaracer is every bit as much a TAG Heuer signature as Carrera or Monaco. Its codes and the philosophy behind it were defi ned decades ago and continue to be as relevant and exciting as ever, particularly in this season of new beginnings and new journeys. The Aquaracer Professional 200 is a companion for a fast-paced, unforgettable life full of adventure and achievement, a life lived beyond the edge.” – Frédéric Arnault, TAG Heuer CEO

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Series vs Aquaracer Professional 300 Series

The most distinguishing difference between the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Series and the Professional 300 series is the case. The former is appreciably more compact with the largest of the sizes sitting on the wrist at 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick. This compares significantly to the 43mm case size of the Professional 300. The new collection also features another smaller case option of 30mm. Both sizes still have the upgraded bezel with twelve facets and almost silent unidirectional rotating functionality, however, the 60 minute scale bezels are finished with a steel insert rather than ceramic.

The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 series also differs in water resistance which is reduced slightly to 200 metres. This is assisted by a twelve-faceted screw down crown at 3 o’clock and a screw down case back. Unlike previous Aquaracer Professional watches, the case back is also no longer engraved with the image of scaphander diving helmet but instead a compass to capture the go-anywhere spirit of exploration. The backdrop to the compass remains the repeating engraved hexagonal motif seen on the Aquaracer Professional 300.

Another noticeable difference between the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 and the Professional 300 series is the display geometry. The dial itself maintains its iconic striped detailing but the markers and hands are distinctly different. Rather than the octagonal hour markers of the Professional 300 series, the Professional 200 watches feature trapezoidal hour markers paired with sleeker hands and crisp white detailing no longer overshadowed by sporty yellow accents. The hour markers and hands are still coated in glow in the dark Superluminova, a material also harnessed on elements of the bezel.

The 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 watches are available as two automatics or two quartz, the latter two finished in a black or silver dial and the automatic references with a gradient black or gradient blue dial. The 30mm range on the other hand offers more elegant dial colourways. There are two quartz models with white mother of pearl dials and diamonds indices, one offering a diamond decorated bezel, alongside three additional quartz reference with a black, white or blue dial. Lastly, there are two 30mm automatic TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 watches, again with a gradient black or gradient blue dial, both set with diamonds for the hour markers.

“With both the automatic and quartz versions, we’ve played on the theme of elegance, giving the watch a narrower bezel, longer indexes, and stronger markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12. It’s more of a street watch in the sense that it’s more elegant and refined, and something you might more readily consider wearing with a suit. That’s why we gave the automatics a fumé dial, for instance.” – Guy Bove, TAG Heuer’s Creative Director

As for which self-winding calibres are used within the automatic TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 watches depends on which size case you choose. The 40mm variants opts for the iconic Calibre 5 movement with a 38 hour power reserve while the 30mm lady’s watches elect the automatic winding Calibre 9 movement with a slightly longer power reserve for 40 hours. The set of TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Automatic watches are distinguished not only by their smoky dials, but they offer date windows, sweeping seconds and a more detailed minutes track. The quartz variants on the other hand offer only a classic three-hand display and a more a pared-back look by comparison.

Last but not least, the full collection of TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 watches are fitted with a three-link bracelet. Although remarkably similar to the feel of the H-link bracelets of the Professional 300 watches, these straps actually have a central bracelet link polished rather than brushed, adding to the formal feel. The bracelets are completed by a matching steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons and an adjustment link extension.

If you’d like to learn more about the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 series and shop the collection for yourself, you can do so on the Jura Watches website here. Alternatively, get in touch with the team by calling 01335 453453 or send us a message at help@jurawatches.co.uk.