DOXA Army Stainless Steel Watch Review

DOXA Army Stainless Steel Watch Review

Following on from the black ceramic DOXA Army ‘Watches of Switzerland Edition’ launched in April, the Swiss watch manufacturer relaunches the cult classic as a permanent DOXA Army watch finished in stainless steel. The design, which begins our run down of Geneva Watch Days 2022 releases, continues to celebrate the brand’s hidden history with the elite Swiss Army Divers unit.

A Brief History of the DOXA Army Watch

While DOXA certainly weren’t the first to pioneer the diver’s watch, they have become one of the most important innovators in the field. Back in the 1960’s when so many luxury watch brands were looking at the stars, aiming to be the first to have their designs on the moon, DOXA had their focus down at the bottom of the ocean. Urs Eschle, head of development for DOXA during the time, decided it was time for professional diving watches to be readily available to the public at an affordable price and so, the DOXA Sub 300 was born. Two years later and the DOXA Sub became the “official watch” of the Swiss Army’s elite diver’s unit with around 150 Sub 300 watches being worn by Swiss Army divers.

Part of their collaboration with the Swiss Army’s elite diver’s unit, DOXA also developed a dedicated tool watch aptly named the DOXA Army. It was launched during 1968 and was promoted as a watch for military divers. It had a black case, black bezel and a military-inspired sand-beige dial which together created a durable and legible instrument worthy of professional diving. Over time, the DOXA Army watch became one of the most collectible vintage DOXA watches on the market, but its scarcity made it almost impossible to find. Then, after more than fifty years since its release, DOXA partnered with Watches of Switzerland to launch a special 100-piece limited edition DOXA Army watch with a black ceramic case. The popularity of said watch has now led the way for another, this time one of a permanent nature: the DOXA Army Stainless Steel watch.

The DOXA Army Stainless Steel Watch

The new DOXA Army Stainless Steel watch ticks many of the same boxes as the limited edition model launched in April but with some new design tropes lovers of vintage timepieces will enjoy. Firstly, the modern black ceramic case is swapped out for a classic 42.5mm stainless steel case while on top, we’re given the choice of two different unidirectional rotating bezels. The first is engineered from steel and comes with a timeless black ceramic insert. The second marks a first for DOXA, as they utilise diving-appropriate bronze and a hunter green ceramic insert. The latter is easily our favourite.

The bezel is perfectly suited for diving with a clear white Superluminova coated 60 minute scale printed around its circumference paired alongside a luminous triangle marker at 12 o’clock. The case of the DOXA Army Stainless Steel watch also impresses with a rather slender 11.95mm height (in diving watch standards) and a screw down crown and threaded steel case back water resistant to 300 metres. The case is topped by scratch resistant sapphire crystal glass treated with anti-reflective coating.

The dial of the DOXA Army Steel watch is almost an exact replica of the previous limited edition with a sandy beige backdrop paired with bright orange hour and minute hands, an arrow-tipped seconds hand, silvered indexes and a date window at 3 o’clock. All the key hardware is adorned with Superluminova for glow in the dark readability. Powering the hours, minutes, seconds and date is the ETA 2824 automatic winding movement which ensures a 38-hour power reserve, 4Hz frequency and 25 jewels.

Completing both variations of the DOXA Army Steel watch is a choice of two straps. Alongside a classic stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet closed by a folding buckle, you can also choose from a FKM rubber strap in black or hunter green. The clasps for both straps are engraved with the iconic DOXA fish symbol. Within the box of each DOXA Army Stainless Steel watch, you’ll also receive a complementary NATO camouflage strap which comes in a special case adorned with the original camouflage pattern of the field uniform worn during the 1960’s time by the Swiss Army.

If you’d like to learn more about the new DOXA Army Stainless Steel watch and get your hands on one for yourself, you can pre-order the model before its October release date on the Jura Watches website here. Alternatively, get in touch with the team by calling 01335 453453 or send us a message at help@jurawatches.co.uk.

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