Zenith’s Christophe Colomb was a unique piece to focus upon, simply because it plays directly into these discussions. By naming their new watch after the famous explorer, they were honouring a man who inadvertently changed the world. This shift wasn’t limited to a mere redrawing of the world map. Instead, it altered the perceptions of individuals and governments in Europe. Nothing would ever be the same again. On another level, neither would timepieces. Columbus invented a new need for more precise and mobile devices. Competition between nations would fuel an innovative atmosphere. What’s more, the engineering and artistic knowledge being created as a result of the Renaissance would also be added to the mix. Progress would occur throughout the next several centuries.

But when you take the gains made in dampening or eliminating the movement that takes place at sea, and try and apply that to a wristwatch, the problem becomes that much more intractable. Even with such a long storied history of experience, Zenith required five years of research, development, and engineering to develop a watch that would remain balanced indefinitely.

Perhaps by giving it such a noteworthy name, Zenith Watches hopes to realise, in a small way, what Columbus did. Their invention has eliminated an age-old problem in watchmaking. It’s possible that such success may push other rival firms to push the envelope even further. In a hundred years of so, people may look back at this point in time, and Zenith collectively or individually, placing it on a timeline in the long history of horological innovations and firsts.

When a company sets out to build a ship’s clock, care needs to be taken on all of these fronts. Which is probably why a company as well-respected as Bremont is undertaking this lost art. Bremont Watches attempting to reclaim a uniquely British tradition in this modern age.

John Harrison started it in the 18th century with his marine chronometer. The British were an impressive sea power already, but this technological advantage augmented this edge. An interesting study would chart the speed at which this innovation passed from military to civilian and mercantile spheres.

After all, the United Kingdom experienced a tremendous upswing in trade during the second half of the 18th century. Would it be preposterous to postulate that at least some of those gains were the result of improving productivity, productivity that came as the result of more precise navigation? It’s clear that Harrison’s sea clocks made long voyages far safer. This should have translated into falling insurance rates over time and lowered the cost of shipped goods, resulting in lower prices for everyone.

The implications of his invention were far-reaching. Bremont’s current efforts are to recognise Harrison’s contributions and sustain such a level of craftsmanship. Sea clocks may not be as high-tech as all the other gadgets that help us find our way these days, but they can still serve as important devices aboard today’s luxury yachts. They can add to the aesthetic appeal and class of the vessel, something that Harrison perhaps never intended, but Bremont does.

Image – garryknight@ Flickr: CC

In an odd way, it’s been the Japanese who have, on the one hand, replaced battery technology in certain sectors such as the watch industry. On the other hand, however, firms such as Toyota have made breakthroughs in battery technology. This has had the consequence of increasing our dependence upon batteries and the harmful processes that go into their production. But that’s apparently the price we need to pay in order to shake our dependence upon oil.

Hopefully the analysis hasn’t gone too far afield, these musings on green Japanese technology and its impact upon worldwide demand for capacitors. Perhaps it can be condensed to the following: firms like Citizen are in the forefront of a rapidly developing field. The Japanese are transforming the manner in which we store and use energy. The innovations are moving us in a direction that’s far more respectful of the environment.

The capstone is that these efforts need to be recognised as those which are going to eventually spread to every manner of device. The fact that Citizen’s ECO-DRIVE exists in small Citizen Watches is probably insignificant in the total amount of waste that will be kept out of groundwater. But if you extrapolate that technology and apply it to a range of other devices–say, cell phones–the implications become far greater. Understanding that this is the likely direction of evolution will help catalyse its acceleration and adoption. Citizen’s helping to point and orient us along the right vector; it’s up to the consumer to recognise it and follow its lead.

Dent & Co

Whether it was Margaret Thatcher, the Falkland Islands War, or the eventual defeat of Soviet-style communism, something helped unleash the British psyche upon the rest of the world. It was the most complimentary imperialism that one could imagine, and iconic British symbols were renewed in the process.

But it produced some new ones: Simon Cowell being one. It also saved some old ones: Dent & Company. In an interesting twist of fate, both of these were brought together, the old and the new. Simon Cowell, of international fame due to the success of “American Idol,” is the newest and most recognisable face of Dent. His White Gold Dent Ministry Chronograph is nothing short of stunning; it speaks volumes to the British revival.

It’s hoped that this kind of publicity will allow one of the greatest stories in watchmaking history to continue well into the future. Ironically, that fate may well rest with the American recognition of the brand. Though burgeoning Far Eastern markets are tremendously important to manufacturers, Dent Watches remain distinctly British. Americans are generally slower to change their buying habits, but once they do, it occurs with a tremendous jump in consumer demand. If you can win over even a small number of Americans, your chance of starting a trend grow exponentially.

Consider it, Dent. Few cultures share as much history and cultural affinity as that of the United Kingdom with respect to the United States. Three hundred million Americans, with the largest disposable income in the world, recovering from a recession, presents an interesting scenario. With as many eyes as there are on Simon Cowell at any moment in time, I expect to see more Dent & Co. White Gold Ministry Chronographs popping up in the near future.

Today, we count on our timepieces to do so much–and within such a small physical space. Not only do we expect them to be crafted from elegant, precious materials, but we also demand style, durability. These functions and forms are the product of many, many years of innovation. IWC Watches Portuguese Collection E-Book pays homage to this legacy, helping us to trace it down to the present day.

Navigation spurred the advance. The need to chart, record, and plot created the chance to measure time in a way that did not–could not have–existed beforehand. Thank the Portuguese, those ambitious imperialists. From their tiny Iberian nation they extended Europe’s reach all the way from the straits of Melacca to Hispaniola. In the process, they created the requirement for precise, portable timepieces.

Now, that need couldn’t be met instantly. It took centuries of work, plus the involvement of the British, to finally produce the kind of instruments needed to reduce the risk of sailing. Yet it’s critical to realise that these devices were experimental in nature. Science was the goal.

That’s not the case today. Today, consumerism is the driver. Demand for watches must run in the high hundreds of millions on an annual, global basis. The need to meet such segmented needs keeps innovation strong. Competition from mobile phones and other digital devices that are able to keep very precise time may be the extra push needed to sustain growth.

So as IWC’s E-Book looks backward to the inspiration of today–the Portuguese pioneers–we take the chance to look to the future as well. We anticipate even more powerful timepieces in the future, those able to compete with the multi-function capabilities of electronic devices.

Yet what the program instilled was a healthy appreciation–awe, perhaps–for the intricacies of what goes on aboard the flight deck. Every day, the launchers and arresting gear absorb dozens of take-offs and landings. The crew is on an incredibly tight schedule to maintain a flow of input and output. One misstep can spell disaster.

Amazingly, there are about three hundred individuals on a carrier flight deck at any one point in time. Their colour-coded uniforms identify which part of the crew they comprise. From a location above the deck, a single individual controls all of these movements. Little control is necessary, as the crews are synchronised and familiar with one another. But someone has to give the necessary commands, and that man is the “Air Boss.”

Victorinox Swiss Army liked the idea so much that they created a watch around the concept. What’s interesting about the Swiss Army watch is that it fits so well with the particular notion of responsibility. After all, it’s the Air Boss who’s responsible, day in and day out, for the fulfilment of the carrier’s main function: maintaining a battle-ready state.  At the same time, he’s responsible for the health and safety of the on-board crew members.

This is not a duty to be taken lightly. Victorinox has thus gone to great lengths to ensure that its timepiece aids the Air Boss in the execution of these responsibilities. The piece should resonate very well with those in the professional classes, as well as those retired U.S. Navy officers who fondly remember their time serving America’s air fleets.

Well, with the Oris RHFS Limited Edition timepiece, all that’s included–standard. It’s actually quite encouraging to see this recent trend develop among watch manufacturers. The idea of honouring specific military units with their own timepieces is not only an untapped niche, but also serves a commemorative purpose. Veterans might appreciate the ability to purchase a watch specially designed to call attention to their unit.

Though the regiment of Special Forces helicopter troops that the Oris watch honours isn’t particularly well-known, the idea is an excellent one. Can you imagine if the company were to take that approach in the United States and feature the 101st Airborne or some other legendary unit? The demand would be tremendous, especially if the watch were affordably priced. Perhaps the names of individual soldiers could even be inscribed on the pieces.

Especially with the increase in the number of American veterans due to the wars in both Iraq and Afghanistan, Oris could find itself with a burgeoning opportunity. Additionally, Veteran’s Day just occurred in the United States. Americans are extremely conscious of the sacrifices made by the country’s soldiers, and a personalised gift along the lines we’re considering would be treasured.

Combined with Oris’ penchant for creating lasting, combat-ready watches, the idea could go far. Soldiers currently in war zones might even hop on board, providing a chance for the company to lend its own type of aid to the efforts. It’s a development that could work for everybody, and that’s something worth seriously considering.

Jorg Gray

Turkey is tied to Europe in a way that few countries are–simultaneously a part of the Continent and an outsider. As such, its living standards are higher than other countries in the region; and though it could be characterised as a developing economy, it’s growing at an extremely high rate. As personal incomes ramp up, so goes the demand for luxury goods. Jorg Gray is an exclusive American brand offering products to the burgeoning upper-middle Turkish class. It’s likely that they will meet with great success if they’re able to effectively market themselves. In the end, that may come down to emphasising their Western origins. As noted, Turkey shares Europe’s cultural history, and the people of the country struggle in defining themselves as either Middle Eastern or European. Certainly in Istanbul, an enormous city, there’s the possibility and opportunity of one day growing into a centre of finance, industry, fashion, and education. Links and ties to the West will help, and the consumption of Jorg Gray watches is a microscopic step in the process.

Jorg Gray may find that its products are especially welcome in this moderately Islamic country. America is not only popular there, but so is the U.S. president. Moderate Muslims generally have a favourable view of Obama, viewing him more as a uniter than a divider. The Obama watch could be a hit in this country. Not only is it very affordably priced, but it comes with a degree of prestige.

It’s important that firms go the extra mile to think of creative ideas to implement in each piece. If a watch is meant to recognise, say, a race car or driver, the watch should be themed appropriately. Watches that don’t attempt to connect with their inspiration are, as would be expected, uninspiring.

So a tribute to the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School (the “Top Gun” academy), should do its very best to make you feel as though you’re twisting and turning after MiGs. Keeping in character, IWC’s watch manages to do just that. At first glance, the watch looks like an altimeter. One is instantly reminded of the instrument panel in a fighter’s cockpit, or perhaps the part of the film where Tom Cruise’s Tomcat begins its dizzying fall, needles and gauges spinning out of control in the process.

The idea of red counterpoises is an added touch, but as great as the IWC watch is, we think that there’s still a lot of material that could be included. Perhaps the next piece will seize upon the legacy of the Tomcat to an even greater extent. For example, the double-engine fighter was famous for its “sweep” wing design that allowed it to fly well at extremely high speeds and manoeuvre in close combat. It was a large carrier-based aircraft that helped broaden America’s global military reach, a plane that struck fear into the hearts of the Soviets. It was legendary, and it’d be a lot of fun to see how far IWC could push the idea in a timepiece.

Most jumps occur somewhere around 10,000 feet. His free fall will begin at a height close to 120,000 feet. That’s nearly 25 miles in the air.

His vehicle to this startling altitude will be a specially designed helium balloon. He’ll also be forced to wear a pressure suit, as the atmospheric pressure will most likely be insufficient to keep his blood from boiling.

What else will be on this incredibly daring journey? A Zenith watch will accompany Mr. Baumgartner for every exhilarating second. After all, this is a company that’s sent pieces to some of the most inhospitable locations on Earth. Sending one above the planet is the natural evolution of this train of thought.

There are a couple environmental difficulties that need to be surmounted in order to achieve this feat: for both the watch and the person wearing it. The lack of pressure has hitherto been referred to. Luckily, watch manufacturers have been working on the pressure problem for a very long time, indeed. Diving watches are built to withstand crushing pressure. In the near-vacuum of the upper atmosphere, the pressure will be on the inside of the piece. But the case must still be built strong and airtight. There’s also the added complication that comes with temperature. Hovering above the bulk of the atmosphere means that the Zenith watch will be in an environment unable to trap the sun’s solar radiation. Incredibly low temperatures will persist. At commercial airline altitudes of approximately 35,000 feet, temperatures are already 50 or 60 degrees below zero (Fahrenheit).

On top of all that is the speed. Breaking the sound barrier is tremendously stressful in terms of forces. Baumgartner’s interested in what the effect will be on the human body. At Zenith, they’re equally interested in what happens to luxury watches.